EPIC 7-Day Texas & New Mexico National Park Road Trip:
Big Bend, Guadalupe Mountains, Carlsbad Caverns, and White Sands

If exploring the Southwest is on your bucket list and you don’t mind a bit of driving to get to some remote areas, a road trip through Texas and New Mexico to see Big Bend, Guadalupe Mountains, Carlsbad Caverns, and White Sands is perfect for you! Not only will you get away from the crowds and see some beautiful scenery, but there are also some great, authentic western towns to visit and cool roadside stops.

To properly visit these national parks in Texas and New Mexico without feeling rushed, you will need 7 days, including 2 in Big Bend, 1 in Guadalupe Mountains, 1 for Carlsbad Caverns, and 1 for White Sands, plus some travel time to get between the parks.

I’m Cheryl, and I love exploring national parks in the West with my husband, Matt, our kids, and our extended family. Since 2020, we’ve helped thousands of travelers plan their trips, and a trip to the Southwest is something I feel that everyone should do at least once in their life.

In this article, I’ll explain:

  • Highlights
  • Overview Map
  • How many days you need (and why)
  • The best time to visit
  • What to expect, including crowds, weather, and roads
  • A daily itinerary for each park
  • Cool towns and roadside stops

Table of Contents

Highlights of the Texas/New Mexico Loop

  • Big Bend National Park. This is the largest of the parks with the most to do. It takes a commitment to get there, so I would allot 2-3 days to do the park thoroughly and justify the time it takes to get there. 
  • Carlsbad Caverns National Park. At least equal to Big Bend (everyone in our group liked this more), this is a spectacularly “decorated” cave, and you can’t miss the bat flight program where thousands of bats exit the cave each evening (seasonal).
  • White Sands National Park. Worth a few hours. The fun here (especially for kids) is sledding down the sand dunes. There are also some great desert hikes and beautiful views.
  • Guadalupe Mountains National Park. This park has almost nothing for the average visitor, including no scenic drive. You’ll need to be able to hike at least 5 flat miles to get a taste for it. If you can’t or don’t want to do that, you may want to skip this one.
  • Terlingua Ghost Town. An authentic western Texas town with a lot of history and personality that sits just outside Big Bend. 
  • Rio Grande Canoeing. We enjoyed our very relaxed float on the Rio Grande River through the wonderful Dark Canyon, where we stepped off the raft into Mexico. 
  • Roswell. Known for its Alien obsession (and commemoration of a UFO sighting in the 1950s), Roswell is a tacky little tourist trap for those who like that kind of thing.
  • PistachioLand. A fun roadside attraction in Alamogordo, touring a Pistachio farm and getting treats. 

Understanding the Area

Before I dive into the itinerary, there are some really important high-level concepts to know about this region. 

This understated region might be almost completely ignored if it weren’t for these four national parks. But thankfully, the national parks got me to visit, and in the process, gain an appreciation for the landscape and culture. 

This region is the heart of the Chihuahuan Desert, one of four major deserts in the United States (the largest and the most biologically diverse of the four). Unlike the stereotypical cactus-filled Sonoran Desert in Arizona, this one is higher, cooler, and more rugged. You’ll see wide stretches of nothingness, occasionally broken up by surprisingly jagged and impressive mountain peaks. The nothingness is part of the allure – it feels like an untouched frontier in some ways. 

Culturally, this is a mix of Mexican, Spanish, and ranching, and modern/new-age desert influences. Expect a lot of Mexican food and Texas BBQ. 

Terms to Know

Chihuahuan Desert. Largest desert in the US, connecting the Big Bend region to Southern New Mexico.
 
Big Bend. Big Bend refers to the sharp bend in the Rio Grande River on the US-Mexico border (the bend in the river is located inside the national park). Big Bend is used both to refer to the national park and to the Big Bend region.

Rio Grande. This river forms the border of the US and Mexico. It flows through Big Bend National Park.
 
Trans-Pecos & Far West Texas. These terms are applied to the western tip of Texas, a region west of the Pecos River.
 
Southern New Mexico. Southern New Mexico doesn’t really have a term other than this descriptive term.

The Tularosa Basin. The area around White Sands National Park.
 
Sky Islands. High altitude mountain ranges (like the Chisos Range in Big Bend) that rise high above the desert floor – their elevation brings more green growth. 

Here are some main concepts to understand about this road trip and region:

  • It’s HUGE. This road trip covers A LOT of ground. Expect to do about 17 hours of driving! The longest days have 5 hours of drive time. 
  • Time zones!! This is IMPORTANT because the road trip is split between Mountain and Central time zones. New Mexico and El Paso, TX, are on Mountain Time. Marfa, Terlingua, and Big Bend are on Central Time. You’ll be close enough to the time zone line that your phone might switch back and forth multiple times in one day – ours did! Bring an analog watch or learn to set your phone to the time zone you’re currently in. 
  • Elevation. It changes a lot on this road trip! Big Bend sits lower and hotter, around 1,800–2,000 ft. As you move north into southern New Mexico, elevations rise into the 3,000–4,000 ft range, bringing noticeably cooler temperatures. Cloudcroft peaks at 8,600 feet, and can be 20–30°F cooler, with completely different scenery to match.
  • Weather & When to Visit. I’ll cover this in more detail later, but know that the High Desert can be both insanely hot and quite cold – depending on your location and time of visit. The sweet months for this road trip are typically March, April, and November. It will be hotter in Big Bend and cooler in New Mexico. 
  • Quirky Desert Town Culture. The Southwest has an “outpost” culture: towns that started as mining camps, ranching hubs, or railroad stops and have since evolved into quirky, eclectic havens for artists, scientists, and recluses. They tend to be a bit rundown, fun, colorful, and don’t take themselves too seriously. Examples are Marfa and Terlingua. Embrace the weird when in the desert! 

How Many Days Do I Need to Visit Texas and New Mexico?

I believe that 7 days is the perfect amount of time, especially because of all the driving required. Even though it’s possible to see parks like White Sands, Guadalupe Mountains, and Carlsbad Caverns in half a day each, it would just be too much time behind the wheel. Plus, it’s nice to explore these parks at a more relaxed pace and make sure you give them each the time they deserve.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you don’t plan on spending much time hiking, you could do this trip in a day or two less time.

Another thing to consider is what YOU are interested in. I’ll give you our exact itinerary, but feel free to skip things that don’t interest you. My mother-in-law LOVES quirky photo ops, so these were included in the itinerary. Paddling down the Rio Grande and looking at stars was my thing. Use our plan and then tweak it to make it your own.

Itinerary Overview 

We spent 7 days, including flying days, to do this road trip. I thought that was the perfect amount of time to see the national parks and fit in plenty of additional towns and sites along the way. But there are options to lengthen or shorten this trip. 

Here’s the basic overview. 

Day 1. Fly into El Paso or Midland, drive to Terlingua or Marfa. 

Day 2. Big Bend. Chisos Basin and Santa Elena Canyon. Stay in Terlingua. 

Day 3. Big Bend. Options: Boquillas (hike or donkey ride), canoeing, offroading, Lajitas, and Big Bend Ranches State Park. Stay in Terlingua. 

Day 4. Drive 4 hours to the Guadalupe Mountains, do a 2-5 mile hike/walk if possible. Drive 1 hour to Carlsbad Caverns for the bat program. Stay in White’s City or Carlsbad. 

• Alternate: Do more hiking in Guadalupe and save the bat program for tomorrow night. 

Day 5. Carlsbad Caverns (Big Room). Consider King’s Palace afternoon tour. Drive to Roswell for Alien sightings. Stay in Roswell. 

Day 6. Drive to White Sands National Park. On the way, consider visiting Billy the Kid Museum, Smokey Bear Museum, Cloudcroft, and Pistachioland. Visit White Sands in the evening. 

Day 7. Back to El Paso to fly out. On the way, consider visiting White Sands Missile Range, the Organ Mountains (allow time for hiking), Pat Garrett’s grave, the World’s Biggest Chili Pepper, and Chamizal National Memorial. 

Adjustments: 

  • If you’re a big hiker, you might consider adding more strenuous treks in the Guadalupe Mountains to really get a taste for the park. Big Bend also offers plenty of additional hiking opportunities if you have the energy. 
  • I would also consider giving Big Bend a third or even fourth day to justify the commitment of getting there; this allows time for extra activities like jeep tours, offroading on dirt roads (4wd required), canoeing, and horseback rides. 
  • If you’re in a rush, you can cut a day from Big Bend (though I wouldn’t recommend it), or skip the Roswell portion entirely to drive straight to White Sands after visiting Carlsbad Caverns. 
  • You can choose to do this loop either clockwise or counterclockwise.

Texas and New Mexico Map and Overview

map showing itinerary sites through New Mexico and Texas

Day 1: Getting There

No matter where you are coming from, getting to this area is a trek.

Most people fly into El Paso, TX. It’s a 4-hour drive to Big Bend from there, which makes for a long travel day.

The Midland, TX, airport is another option, but it’s smaller and is still 3 hours away from Big Bend.

Because you’ll most likely have a long drive after your flight, try to get a direct flight that leaves earlier in the day. That way, you’ll have the time (and hopefully the energy) to get to wherever you are staying to visit the park the next day

Because our flight arrived very late, we drove 3 hours to Marfa, TX, where we stayed our first night, because the 3-hour drive sounded more doable than the 5-hour drive to Terlingua. We had a 2-hour drive the next morning to get to the park.

GOOD TO KNOW: El Paso is on Mountain time, while Marfa, Terlingua, and Big Bend are on Central time. You’ll lose an hour on the drive from the airport to Big Bend.

Lodging. We stayed at the Riata Inn in Marfa. It got the job done, but I wouldn’t recommend it. 

family standing in front of Big Bend National Park sign

Day 2: Big Bend- Chisos Mountains & Terlingua Ghost Town

Stop 1: Panther Junction Visitor Center

I don’t recommend starting at the visitor center in every park, but I recommend it in this one because it really set me up to appreciate what I was going to be seeing in the park.

The first thing I really liked was the giant relief map. The ranger working there was awesome and he did a little presentation where he explained that Big Bend had three very different regions: the Chisos Mountains, the Chihuahuan Desert, and the Rio Grande River. He taught us a little about each of them and recommended we spend a day exploring each.

The park film was also great. We especially liked learning about the species of cacti that live in the park. There are over 40 different kinds! It talked about their life cycle and it was fun to look for those plants later on as we were driving around.

Lastly, there is the Panther Path, which is paved, flat, and easy, and it takes you through some of the plants common in the park. They are labeled, and it was super cool to see the flowering cacti.

Facilities:

  • Flushing toilets
  • Small gift shop with sun shirts, aloe, and sunglasses
  • Water spigot for refilling bottles

We left this visitor center with a clear plan and a much deeper appreciation for the park.

visitor center entrance
Panther Junction Visitor Center
informational sign on dinosaurs
Dinosaurs used to live in the Big Bend Area

Stop 2: Drive the Chisos Basin Road

Next, we headed up into the Chisos Basin. It’s about a 15–20 minute winding mountain drive that has trailer restrictions: nothing over 20 feet. You leave the desert and suddenly you’re in rugged mountains.

At the top, there’s a small visitor center with displays, flushing toilets, and a water spigot to refill your bottle. There is also a store near the campground with snacks, drinks, ice, and picnic tables.

There is also a lodge and restaurant here, but they were scheduled to be closed for a while so they could be refurbished. You can check current conditions here.

We had a picnic under a tree surrounded by cacti and mountain views. It felt like its own little world and was really nice.

road with mountains in the distance
Driving in Big Bend
people having picnic at picnic table
Our private picnic area in the Chisos Basin

Stop 3: Window View Trail

The Window View Trail, along with a few other trails, is in this area. It’s a nice, easy walk with a nice view. It’s a 0.3‑mile paved loop, flat, accessible, and family-friendly. It has great views of the Chisos peaks and the “Window” opening.

woman walking on paved trail
Window View Trail

Stop 4: Lost Mine Trail

If you’re up for a moderate hike, the Lost Mine Trail is the most popular in the park.

  • Distance: 4.8 miles round trip
  • Elevation gain: about 1,100 feet
  • Trail: rocky, packed dirt, steady uphill

You start in cactus country, then climb into the mountains for bigger views. I especially enjoyed the reddish rock formations (very unique!) and the long views I had across multiple valleys with distant mountain ranges. There was green lichen on the rocks and I could see birds circling the canyons.

Even though this is a popular trail, we still had the overlook to ourselves. It felt quiet and peaceful.

HOT TIP: There were signs all over the park saying to be done hiking by noon. Temperatures were moderate when we visited, but I would absolutely follow this advice if you are traveling in warmer months. It gets HOT here and you need to be careful.

women sitting on cliff looking at view
Lost Mine Trail (had the viewpoint all to ourselves!)

Stop 5: Terlingua Cemetery & Starlight Theatre

In the evening, head outside the park to the ghost town of Terlingua. This is a tiny town with a population of only 100 people. Although it has businesses that cater to tourists, it feels like a very authentic Southwest experience and we enjoyed our time in this town as much as our time in the park.

Terlingua Cemetery

This ended up being one of my favorite Western cemeteries. Terlingua used to be a mining town, so many of the graves are of people who died in mining accidents or from a sickness that went through the town. There are around 100 graves and they look like very little has been done with them over the years.

I saw simple wooden crosses, mounds of stones, and empty beer bottles, as if someone had visited and shared a drink with an old friend. There were also coins across the tombstones and the cemetery is surrounded by red rock and cacti.

It felt raw and real and was a great spot to take pictures.

old cemetery with wooden crosses and flat rocks
Terlingua Cemetery
grave covered in glass bottles
Terlingua Cemetery
Starlight Theatre front entrance sign
Starlight Theatre

Starlight Theatre

The Starlight Theatre actually isn’t a theater at all. It’s a bar and a great spot for dinner. There is usually a long wait, but we don’t mind because it is more than just a place to eat.

This is where the locals hang out. There’s a large wooden porch out front where everyone is drinking and socializing. It has a great view of the sunset hitting the Chisos Mountains. One night, people were playing their guitars and singing. It was WONDERFUL!

There are also some local shops you can check out while you are waiting.

The atmosphere inside is great with all sorts of authentic artifacts from the town’s history, including a stuffed goat, Clay Henry, the past governor of Terlingua’s neighboring town, Lajitas.

We actually ate here twice on our trip because we liked it so much. All the food was great, but I especially liked the BBQ, burgers, and jumbo shrimp tacos with mango. Their desserts were also amazing, especially the pecan cake.

It’s also common to have live music here by local musicians.

FUN FACT: The Starlight Theatre used to play movies to entertain the miners. When the mines dried up, everyone took off. The aluminum roof on the theatre was of value, so they took it with them. The theater continued to be used, without a roof. That is where the name comes from. In 1991, it was renovated and got a roof.

people standing on front deck of old building
Deck at Starlight Theatre
view of mountains in desert at sunset
View from the deck of the Starlight Theatre
Green Chili Burger and french fries
Green Chili Burger
Cheesecake with whipped cream
Cheesecake
stuffed mountain goat with beer bottle in its mouth
Clay Henry

Day 3: Ross Maxwell Drive, Rio Grande & Dark Skies

Stop 1: Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

We entered the park around 8:00 am and headed down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive toward the Rio Grande and Santa Elena Canyon. Remember, this park gets hot, so the earlier you can start your day, the better.

It’s just a 30-minute drive on a paved road if you go straight there, but there are plenty of spots to stop along the way. We stopped at the:

  • Homer Wilson Ranch
    • Short walk down to an old ranch house and sheep pen
    • Interesting glimpse into the ranching past of the area
    • We loved the desert itself here: multiple cactus varieties, bright green after rain, vultures overhead, and a centipede sighting
    • Was skippable, but we enjoyed it
  • Sotol Vista
    • Big viewpoint with a restroom and benches. The ranger told us it was the best viewpoint in the park that you can drive to
    • You can see Santa Elena Canyon in the distance and look across to Mexico
house in desert with cacti out front
Home Wilson Ranch
sheep pen made of wooden posts
Sheep pen at Homer Wilson Ranch
centipede in rocks
Centipede near Homer Wilson Ranch

Stop 2: Santa Elena Canyon

Santa Elena is one of Big Bend’s top spots. It’s a short trail along the Rio Grande into a narrow canyon with towering walls on both sides. The U.S. on one side, Mexico on the other

We didn’t make it all the way there because of road flooding and were genuinely disappointed. This happening is very rare- they only get 6 inches of rain all year. We just had bad luck! If your timing and weather cooperate, I’d absolutely include this stop.

We did get to see the Rio Grande, though, and… I was surprised how small it is. It was only 10-15 feet across and around 3 feet deep in most spots. It’s super muddy too! In fact, they really discourage people from trying to swim in it.

GOOD TO KNOW: Even though the road was flooded, there was a benefit to the recent rains. The cacti were a vibrant green and the whole park smelled so good.

cactus with flower
cactus and other desert plants
Beautiful cacti in the park

Stop 3: Dark Canyon Canoe Trip

In the afternoon, we joined a guided canoe trip through Dark Canyon on the Rio Grande in Big Bend Ranch State Park (right next door to Big Bend National Park).

We went with Far Flung Outdoor Center, based in Terlingua, and they were terrific. We paid for this tour ourselves and get no compensation for recommending them. We are regular tourists sharing our experience.

Here are some things to know:

  • It took about 4 hours total, with 2 hours on the water
  • Calm, slow float. Very beginner-friendly
  • Two people per canoe, plus several guides for the group
  • Included a 15-minute rest stop where they provided water and a snack
  • A 12-passenger van took us on a scenic drive out through Big Bend Ranch, then we launched on the Rio Grande

On the river, we saw:

  • Canyon walls rising around us
  • Turtles sunning on rocks
  • Ducks and other birdlife
  • Surprisingly green vegetation along the banks

The guides were patient and fun, taught us how to steer, and even hopped out to help in shallow “tricky” spots. At one point, we got out on the far bank, which meant we were technically standing in Mexico. We were super excited about that!

We loved this float. It was peaceful, warm, and gave us a different feel for the region.

people in front of canoes near river
Canoeing the Rio Grande
shuttle van for canoe tour
Our van for our canoe trip with Far Flung Outdoors

Stop 4: Dinner in Terlingua & Astro Mucho Star Party

We went back to the Starlight Theatre for dinner again (yes, it was that good), then headed to a public star party in Terlingua that our river guide had told us about.

DID YOU KNOW? The area of Big Bend has one of the darkest night skies in the lower 48! Terlingua has light ordinances to keep the skies dark and is one of the best places around to stargaze.

The event was run by Astro Mucho and hosted at Far Flung Outdoor Center. Although their events sometimes cost $25 per person, the night we went was free. There were around 20 high-powered telescopes set up and the presenter was dynamite.

He used a laser pointer to show us the constellations. Something that really surprised us was that we could see satellites gliding across the sky.

When the presentation was over, we could look through the telescopes. I saw Jupiter and could even see a couple of its moons. It was fascinating and a real highlight for our group.

night sky over lighted hotel
Star Party

If you choose to go, bring:

  • Your own chair
  • A red light or flashlight with red over it, so you don’t disturb others as you walk around
  • A jacket. The desert cools down a lot at night

Bonus Day: Boquillas del Carmen (Mexico) & Hot Springs

If you have a third day and want to do something unique, this is where I’d spend it.

Morning: Rio Grande Village & Hot Springs

On the eastern side of the park, near Rio Grande Village, you can:

  • Walk the river trails with views across to Mexico
  • Soak in the historic Hot Springs (short, mostly flat walk; the access road is unpaved but usually passable in a regular car when dry).

Midday: Cross into Boquillas del Carmen by Burro

The real “bonus” experience is crossing into Boquillas del Carmen, a tiny Mexican village across the Rio Grande.

At the Boquillas Crossing Port of Entry:

  • Park at the border lot near Boquillas Canyon
  • Go through the small U.S. port of entry building
  • Take a short rowboat ride across the river (about $5 round trip)
  • On the Mexican side, choose to walk, ride a burro or horse, or take a truck up to the village (about 0.5–1 mile)

Once in Boquillas del Carmen:

  • Check in with Mexican immigration and pay a small conservation fee for the surrounding protected area
  • Eat at one of the simple, good local restaurants
  • Walk the village, buy handmade crafts, or take a short tour with a local guide

Most visitors spend 2–3 hours in Boquillas and then cross back.

CURRENT HOURS (as of early 2026):

The Boquillas Port of Entry is generally open Friday through Monday, 9:00 am – 4:00 pm.

This can change, so always confirm the latest schedule on the official Big Bend National Park website before you plan your day.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

  • Every person needs a valid passport book or passport card. Driver’s licenses alone are not enough
  • Bring cash in small bills; U.S. dollars are widely accepted, but you’ll want change for food, burro rides, and tips
  • This crossing exists to support the village; your visit genuinely helps the local economy

We didn’t get to do this because we showed up on the wrong days of the week, and I wish we’d built our schedule around it.

However, the reviews online are a mixed bag. I think riding the burro is a great photo op, and it sounds cool to be able to say you rode a burro to Mexico. But some have said that the path is dusty and filled with manure and that Boquillas is a tourist trap. Use your own judgment on this one.

IMPORTANT: The border closes at a certain time every day. If you don’t cross it before that time, you will be sleeping in Mexico that night. Check the hours and make sure you are back on time.

Important Things to Know About Visiting Big Bend

Driving: The main roads are paved and fine to drive in a regular vehicle, except the Chisos Basin road, which has trailer limits

Cell Service and Time Zones: Most of the time, you will not have cell service. You are right on a time zone border, so be prepared for the time on your phone to switch between the two throughout the day. Wear an analog watch, so you always know the correct time.

Food and Gas: Big Bend has a couple of small markets and grocery stores, but we recommend filling up and stocking up on picnic supplies before entering the park. There are plenty of restaurants in the gateway towns.

Heat and Sun: Wear a wide-brimmed hat and plenty of sunscreen. There is very little shade.

Dogs: Dogs are not allowed in most areas of the park, including buildings and hiking trails.

Where to Stay: Terlingua, Marfa, Alpine, and Marathon are all gateway towns that will work. There is also in-the-park lodging at Chisos Basin.


 

road through national park

Day 4: Guadalupe Mountains & Carlsbad Caverns

Stop 1: Guadalupe Mountains Visitor Center

The Guadalupe Mountains is a super small park that was established in 1972. It was made into a park because there’s a fossilized reef here, with lots of marine fossils. Little has been done to make it accessible for visitors.

A highway runs along the edge of the park and takes about 15 minutes to drive from end to end. The pull-outs and stops are poorly marked, and the drive isn’t very scenic- mostly sagebrush.

We stopped at the visitor center, which has a few displays and a small shop with snacks and souvenirs.

We asked the ranger working there about possible things to do in the park, including hikes, and she said that the McKittrick Canyon Trail was the favorite of the park rangers.

Stop #2: McKittrick Canyon Trail

The McKittrick Trail is an easy, flat, 5-mile, round-trip hike. At the trailhead, there’s a water refill station and a 7-minute video that you can watch about Pratt, the guy who donated his ranch. There is also a bathroom with flushing toilets. The trail is fairly wide, flat, covered in gravel, and surprisingly has a lot of greenery on it, including cacti and other plants that kind of look like weeds. We were hoping to see some fossils, but never did.

couple standing in front of Guadalupe Mountains National Park
purple desert flowers
Pretty desert flowers
old lodge made of stone
Pratt Cabin
couple sitting on rocking chairs on front porch
Amazing view of the mountains from the rocking chairs at the Pratt Cabin

We loved how this trail switched scenery throughout. We started walking through a sagebrush desert, and then we got to a spot that looked kind of like a rainforest with canopy trees, and then we crossed a river (super easy to cross- didn’t get our feet wet) and got into the mountains. The river rocks were some of the whitest rocks I’ve ever seen.

The Pratt Cabin at the end was especially cool. I really liked the rocking chairs on the patio that you can sit on and enjoy the view of the mountains. The lodge was locked, but it looked like maybe it’s open to visitors sometimes because it looked to be decorated inside. Overall, we found this hike surprisingly cool and ended up being our favorite hike of the trip.

It took us around two hours to hike it. The ranger says it normally takes 2 to 3.

Stop #3: We went to the Frijole Ranch Cultural Museum

This was just a very, very short paved accessible walk to an old ranch. There were picnic tables, some shade, and a bathroom, as well as a little schoolhouse. All the buildings were locked, but the main building looked like it was open sometimes because there were some displays in it. You can just kind of peek in the windows. It is nice that there is a shaded picnic area, because shade is a luxury around here. This is probably about a 15-minute stop. There were actually quite a few cars parked in the parking lot.

If you are up for a little hike, you can do the 0.5-mile, round-trip Manzanita Springs Trail. It was paved, accessible, exposed, and honestly, kind of boring. The spring was okay. It was probably 20 feet across and looked like a pond. Something I did like about this trail and this park is that we saw quite a few lizards that were kind of a bluish-purplish color, which we thought was interesting.

Important Things to Know About the Guadalupe Mountains

The park closes at 5 pm every night. Unlike many national parks that are open 24 hours a day, park rangers close the gate to this one every night at 5 pm. If you aren’t out in time, you are locked in for the night and you’ll be issued a ticket in the morning.
 
Cell Reception. Once in a while, I would get a few bars, but I wouldn’t count on getting good reception.
 
Ideal Visiting Season. This park can get pretty warm. Like Big Bend, March, April, and November are the preferred times to visit. 
 

Stop #4: Bat Flight Program at Carlsbad Caverns

We drove an hour to Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Our evening at the bat flight program was one of my favorite national park experiences ever.

We arrived at the bat amphitheater around 6:30 pm:

  • Large parking lot with an accessible section closer to the seating
  • Stone benches in a big outdoor amphitheater overlooking the cave entrance and valley

A ranger gave a 40-minute talk about the bats. Ranger talks vary from 30 to 45 minutes, depending on when the bats begin exiting the cave. Some of my favorite things I learned:

  • Many of the females are pregnant when they arrive in the spring.
  • When a baby is born, the mom spends about an hour licking, smelling, and listening to it so she can recognize it later.
  • She can then find her baby among thousands in the roost.
  • The bats can eat up to half their body weight in moths and other insects in a night.
  • Bats can fly up to 70 miles per night to get their food.

Then the real show began.

As dusk approached, bats began flying out of the cave. Depending on the time of year, that can range from thousands to nearly a million bats in one night.

On the night we attended, I’m guessing about 20,000 bats flew out. In August and September, the peak for bat viewing, when the whole colony is there, and the babies can fly, an entire swarm can leave the cave at once!

sign marking paved pathway to bat amphitheater
people taking selfie in amphitheater
Amphitheater for the Bat Flight Program
informational sign about bats and birds

IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

  • Phones must be completely powered off (not just on silent)
  • No photos or videos are allowed
  • Everyone must remain totally quiet
  • No food is allowed

At first, I was a little sad that we couldn’t record it, but sitting in silence, just watching and listening to the faint sound of thousands of wings, ended up being my favorite part. It felt peaceful and special. Here’s a video I found online so you can see what it looks like.

The bats continue leaving for 2–3 hours, but eventually it gets too dark to see them.

FUN FACT: There is an “Adopt a Bat” program. It costs $10 and is a donation to the park. We loved the certificate we got.

Lodging: That night, we stayed at White’s City Caverns Inn (book here). It’s older, but it’s really clean and our room was big and comfortable. I was so happy to be there and it was my favorite place we stayed so far on our trip.

Day 5: Carlsbad Caverns

Stop #1: Visitor Center & Getting Oriented

We arrived around 9:30 am and were immediately impressed:

  • Huge parking lot (with plenty of room for RVs) + a large parking lot/ drop off area for those with accessibility needs
  • Newer‑looking exhibits
  • A big gift shop with cute shirts and souvenirs
  • Friendly rangers who happily mapped out our day

This is where you’ll:

  • Check in for your timed entry
  • Decide whether you’re hiking the Natural Entrance or taking the elevator
  • Pick up the audio tour (highly recommended and available in the gift shop)

There is also a park film you can watch later in the day when your feet need a break.

man and woman in front of Carlsbad Caverns National Park sign

Stop #2: Natural Entrance

You have two options to get into the cave:

  1. Hike down the Natural Entrance
  2. Take the elevator directly to the Big Room

We chose the Natural Entrance, and I’m so glad we did.

  • About 1.5 miles of steep, paved switchbacks
  • It reminded me a little bit of Walter’s Wiggles in Zion
  • You’re outside for just a moment, then almost immediately inside the cave, seeing formations

From the very beginning, you’re surrounded by cave features. You don’t have to walk forever to “get to the good part.”

pathway with railing down into cave
Natural entrance into Carlsbad Caverns
paved walkway down into cave
Steep walk into the Natural Entrance
informational sign about Bat Guano

GOOD TO KNOW: The walk down is no joke. It’s a steep walk downhill and can be tough on knees and ankles. There are lots of handrails and places to stop and rest, but for anyone with even minor mobility issues, I’d skip this and use the elevator.

And yes, it smells near the entrance. There’s bat guano (another name for poop) in that area, so it has a pretty yucky smell at first. Thankfully, it only lasts for a minute.

Stop #3: The Big Room – Exploring the Cave

Once you reach the bottom, you enter the Big Room, which is really the star of Carlsbad Caverns.

  • About a 1‑mile paved loop
  • High ceilings and wide walkways – it does not feel tight or claustrophobic

I love that the Big Room is a self-guided tour. It’s great to stop when you want and stay as long as you like. There are lots of signs explaining what you are seeing (and pointing you in the right direction). What really impressed me was that we kept turning corners and saying, “You’ve got to see this.” There are:

  • Tall columns
  • Delicate draperies
  • Pools of water
  • Deep pits with railings so you can safely look down

We picked up the audio guide before heading in:

  • About 50 stops
  • Lots of info about how the cave was formed, the formations in it, and the history
  • Only ~$5 dollars and totally worth it

By the time we finished, I felt like we had a much deeper understanding of what we were seeing. It also made the ranger‑guided tour later feel a bit repetitive, so if you do the audio, you can feel fine skipping King’s Palace if you’re tired.

illuminated signs and pathway in cave
woman listening to audio guide on device
Get the audio tour from the gift shop before entering the cave
stalactites in cave
Inside the Big Room
illuminated restroom sign in cave
The cave is so big that there are restrooms inside
gift shop inside of large room in cave
Gift shop in the cave
stalactites and stalagmites in cave with illuminated sign
Decorations inside the cave

Stop #4: Lunch

Usually, we skip the national park food. It can be pricey and isn’t usually that good. But we thought the food at Carlsbad Caverns wasn’t bad. Most of the choices are Southwest cuisine. Matt got a prickly pear pulled pork sandwich, and I got a Frito Chili pie. Both were under $15 and were pretty good. The grandparents bought some cookies and loved them.

You can also bring your own food to Carlsbad Caverns. They have a nice picnic area overlooking the valley. There’s no shade, but we enjoyed the picnic dinner we had there the night we arrived.

chili on fritos
Frito Chili Pie
woman holding box full of food
Picnic area at Carlsbad Caverns

Stop #4: King’s Palace Ranger‑Guided Tour (Optional)

In the afternoon, we did the King’s Palace tour, which started at 1:30 pm and lasted about 90 minutes.

Here’s what to expect:

  • About four chambers with very pretty formations
  • A few steeper sections, but nothing extreme. Think twice if you have mobility concerns
  • A “lights out” moment where they turn everything off so you can experience complete darkness
  • A group of roughly 30 people with two rangers

It’s a slower‑paced experience: you walk a bit, then stand or sit while listening and asking questions.

We enjoyed the formations. They are closer to the ground, which is why it’s a ranger-guided program. People have vandalized the cave in the past.

I thought these caverns were just a tiny bit better than what I saw on the cave tour. My husband felt they were the same.

ranger speaking to people in cave
The King’s Palace tour is ranger-guided
open area of cave
I liked how the decorations on the King’s Palace tour were closer to the ground
Who it’s great for:Who can skip it:
You really love caves and want more time undergroundYou already did the audio tour and feel satisfied
You didn’t do the audio tour and want more educationYou’re tired, short on time, or traveling with younger kids

We were glad we did it, but I didn’t feel like we would have “missed” Carlsbad Caverns if we hadn’t. The Big Room carries the day.

Stop #5: Visitor Center Exhibits & Junior Ranger

After riding the elevator back up, we spent some time in the visitor center:

  • Exhibits about cave life, formations, and park history
  • A nice gift shop (we bought bat socks and a bat sweatshirt)
  • A Junior Ranger area and children’s displays

This is a great time to:

  • Watch the park film
  • Sit for a bit and let your legs recover
  • Browse for a souvenir
exhibit about bats in visitor center
Visitor Center
visitor center exhibit at Carlsbad Caverns

Optional: Walnut Canyon Desert Drive

We didn’t do the Walnut Canyon Desert Drive because it was closed due to flood damage during our visit, but it’s worth mentioning so you can decide if it belongs in your day.

When it’s open, Walnut Canyon Desert Drive is:

  • A 9.5‑mile, one‑way unpaved loop through the Chihuahuan Desert
  • Not maintained for low‑clearance vehicles
  • Closed to RVs, buses, and trailers

You’ll see desert plants, ridges, and a few viewpoints. It’s more of a quiet desert drive than a “wow” road like some other parks have. If you have extra time and higher clearance, it can be a nice add‑on. If not, you’re not missing the core Carlsbad experience by skipping it.

Always check current conditions at the visitor center, because this road has been closed on and off due to damage.

Important Things to Know About Carlsbad Caverns

Timed-entry required: The cave can only hold so many people, so this park has a timed-entry system. Learn more on their website

Cell Reception: You’ll have no reception while in the cave, but the gateway towns of Carlsbad and White’s City have service.
 
Ideal Visiting Season: The bats are migratory and begin arriving in late April and stay through the end of October. The best time to view them is in September/October when the bats fly out with their babies.

Dogs: Dogs are not allowed in the cave, in the visitor center, or on hiking trails, but a kennel service is offered at the park. 
 

Lodging: Drive to Roswell and stay the night. We stayed at the Roswell Inn (book here), which had some alien theming. It was clean and got the job done.

Read more about Carlsbad Caverns in our article One Day in Carlsbad Caverns National Park (+ Where to Eat and Stay).

Day 6: Roswell, Roadside Stops, and White Sands National Park

Stop #1: Look for Aliens

Roswell’s claim to fame is that there have been a few alien sightings that have taken place here. The town really leans into this and you can find several stores with alien merch, alien-themed restaurants, murals, and even a UFO museum.

You can learn al ot by stopping by the Roswell Visitor Center or visiting their website. You can get a map that shows you where everything is

We enjoyed spending a couple of hours taking pictures in front of murals, visiting the International UFO Museum, and getting a cheeseburger at the UFO-shaped McDonald’s.

people wearing alien eyes in front of UFO sign
Fun photo ops in Roswell
McDonald's restaurant in the shape of a spaceship
Spaceship-themed McDonald’s
alien display in museum
Inside the UFO Museum

Stop #2: Lincoln County Courthouse

As we made our way to White Sands National Park, we made a quick stop at the Lincoln County Courthouse, where Billy the Kid escaped from jail. There are a few small museums in town and the small fee gets you into all of them for the day.

We really enjoyed the self-guided walking tour through the courthouse. It led to an interesting debate that lasted the rest of the day… was Billy the Kid a good guy or a bad guy? What about the sheriff, Pat Garret, who eventually shot him?

man standing next to metal silhousette of Billy the Kid
Billy the Kid at the Courthouse

Stop #3: Smokey Bear Historical Park

This was another quick stop we made on our way, but an interesting one. Did you know that Smokey the Bear was a real bear and the longest ever advertising campaign in the United States?

You can learn fun things like this and more at this short stop (less than an hour). There is Smokey Bear merch, memorabilia, and even his grave.

Smokey the Bear statue
Inside the Smokey Bear Historical Park

FUN FACT: Smokey was an orphaned cub because his mother was killed in a forest fire. He lived a lot of his life at the National Zoo. When he died, he was made a federal employee and his body was shipped back to Capitan, New Mexico, to be buried.

Stop #4 PistachioLand

Located in Alamogordo, NM, PistachioLand was my very favorite roadside stop! It only took about one hour and is completely free, though I highly recommend taking the $5 pistachio farm tour.

The tour only took 30 minutes and our tour guide drove us around in a cute, little open-air car. She explained that there are male and female pistachio trees AND that they don’t produce any nuts until they are over 20 years old!

There is a large store filled with pistachio-themed merch AND… they have free pistachio samples. The habanero chile was my favorite. I also bought a pistachio ice cream cone and it was wonderful.

The last thing to do before you move to your next stop is to snap a pic with the world’s biggest pistachio. It’s over 30 feet tall!

man and woman in front of large pistachio statue
World’s Largest Pistachio at Pistachio Land
people on open air shuttle
Pistachio Tour
green Pistachio Shake
Pistachio Shake

Stop #5 White Sands National Park

We arrived around 4:00 pm, just in time to check out the small White Sands Visitor Center, get our national park passports stamped, and pick up a souvenir pin. A gift shop is also on-site. This is important because they rent and sell saucers and boards to slide down the dunes on.

Next, we did the Dunes Drive. It’s 8 miles long and takes about 45 minutes. At first, you are on a regular road and most of what you see is sand with lots of weeds in it, but as you progress, the road turns a perfect white color and the weeds disappear.

There are several pullouts for hiking trails, picnic areas, viewpoints, and my favorite…SAND SLEDDING.

Hot Tips for Sand Sledding

Find the steepest hill you can. There is a lot more friction with sand vs snow. If the hill isn’t steep enough, you won’t go.
 
The steepest hills are toward the end of Dunes Drive.

Don’t forget the wax. Wax is sold at the gift shop for a couple of bucks. Rub it all over your sled before each run.

Know the rental hours. You can rent a sled, but you will be limited to the rental hours. It’s nice to sled in the evening when it’s cooler.

Honestly, climbing those dunes is hard work, so you’ll probably go down a few times and be done for the day. One of the nice things about climbing to the top of the hill is that it gives you a much nicer view of the dunes. I loved watching the sun set from up there.

If you have the time and energy, take a hike through the dunes– it’s not as bad as it sounds. The sand is more compact than it looks and it’s fun to follow the poles that mark the trail. We did the Dune Life Nature Trail. It was a one-mile loop, only took about an hour, and was easy. We enjoyed learning about the dunes and the wildlife that live there by reading the signs as we hiked.

Important Things to Know About White Sands


Cell Reception. You may have some service, but don’t plan on it.
 
Ideal Visiting Season. Spring and Fall. Temperatures can get to over 100 degrees in the summer.

Dogs. This is one of the most dog-friendly national parks! They are allowed on the dunes. Just make sure to keep your doggo on a leash and clean up after it. 
 

man and woman in front of White Sands National Park sign
ladies waxing their round sand sleds
Waxing your sled is important!
ladies riding sleds down sand hill
Go on the steepest hill you can find
woman reading informational sign in sand dunes
Dune Nature Trail

Day 7: Roadside Stops and Head Home

There were several other stops we made on our way back to El Paso, TX, as well as other stops we made throughout the trip. Here’s a list of things you can do if you are interested.

mural at roadside stop
Giant Marfa Mural
man and woman in front of Prada building at roadside stop
Prada Marfa
man standing among missiles at testing range
White Sands Missile Range

Best Time to Visit

This area gets HOT in the summer, especially Big Bend. The best months to visit are March, April, and November to avoid the heat.

However, if you are only visiting Carlsbad Caverns, the peak time to view the bats exiting the cave is August and September when the babies leave the cave with their mothers.

Final Thoughts

Although this region is remote, Big Bend, Guadalupe Mountains, Carlsbad Caverns, and White Sands National Parks are a rewarding and almost crowd-free experience. Give yourself at least a week to see everything (and everything in between!) and the driving to sightseeing ratio will be perfect.

Plan an Unforgettable Western Road Trip in Hours, Not Weeks

13 road trip ideas across the West so you know where to go, how long to stay, and what to see

*Sample routes from 4–31 days across national parks and hidden gems
*Driving times + best stops so you don’t miss the good stuff
*Season + weather notes to avoid closed roads and peak‑crowd days
*Lodging ideas in the right spots so you cut backtracking

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